The trail known as the ‘spine of the dinosaur’. (Photo courtesy of Vu Son Tung)Quang
Ninh – For many Vietnamese, autumn is the most beautiful
season of the year because of its weather and views. And it is even more so in Binh
Lieu, Quang Ninh Province, which is well known for its hills covered
in ravishing white reeds.
Compared
to other more famous tourist destinations in Quang Ninh such as Ha
Long Bay, Co To, or Quan Lan, Binh Lieu is just an obscure name. But this
cannot hide the attractiveness of the region, especially to younger
tourists.
Located
in the northeast, more than 100km away from the centre of Ha Long City and
right next to the border with China, the mountainous district has a peaceful
atmosphere and spectacular landscapes of untouched beauty.
In
July and August, the district is decorated with the golden colour of terraced
fields as they enter harvest season, while in March and April, trẩu flowers (Vernicia
Montana) bloom, which are only found in Binh Lieu, and the whole region
bursts in an array of stunning colours.
Though
it is beautiful in every season, many will like it best in the autumn.
When
autumn comes, the hills of Binh Lieu are covered with white reeds,
creating spectacular romantic views for travellers. Thus the area is known as
the ‘Reed Kingdom’.
These
white reed hills can be found on border patrol road at an altitude of 700m,
just west of Binh Lieu. To get there, tourists have to travel from Binh Lieu
Town to Hoanh Mô, and then to Ngan Chuong Village in Luc Hon Commune.
From
here, tourists can start the journey to visit the border route, which is
about 16km long. Many majestic landmarks are numbered and
prove popular places for young travellers to take photos.
Along
the way, visitors can enjoy wonderful views of terraced fields, small
villages hidden behind mountains and clear blue skies.
The
small road leading to the reed fields is right on top of a high hill, and it is
likened to walking on a back of a giant dinosaur. It is known locally
as ‘the spine of the dinosaur’.
It
is also considered the biggest challenge of the whole journey as it leads to
the peak of the highest mountain of Binh Lieu.
In
the past there there was no road and travellers had to walk
through many hidden dangers. However, a more than one-metre wide road was
completed in 2018 and it is now more convenient, including 2,000 steps and
guard rails on both sides.
To
reach the landmark, it takes about 2 hours.
Besides
natural beauty, tourists can also experience and witness the lives of local
ethnic minorities.
A
total of 96 percent of Binh Lieu’s population are ethnics, the
highest concentration of minorities in the whole country. The Tay accounts
for the majority, 51.27 percent. Others include the Dao (28.21 percent)
and San Chay (15.25 percent).
Each
ethnic group retains its own cultural values and unique dishes elaborately
cooked with local ingredients. Some outstanding local dishes are five-colour
sticky rice, black chicken, arrowroot noodles, and stir-fried wild bamboo
shoot.
The patterns
on the clothing of each group also vary, with the Dao embroidering using
colourful thread, while the Tay and San Chi preferring to dye their
fabrics in indigo and blue.
The
mountainous district also has its own intangible cultural heritage, notably
festivals including the Luc Na festival and the singing festival in March.
During the festival, visitors can watch locals playing folk games like tug
of war, and enjoy their unique traditional songs.
Relatively
unspoilt by development, the cultural features of the ethnic communities in Binh
Lieu are mesmerising, and the untouched landscapes make it an amazing
place for tourists to explore./.
