Salt coffee at this shop gets shipped from Huế, where a coffee plantation grows on the former battlefield of A Lưới. VNS Photos Mỹ Hà

by Nguyễn Mỹ Hà

While many have commented on Việt Nam’s unique coffee culture amid a continent renowned for tea, recent innovations have enhanced its appeal.

Even in the heart of the coffee kingdom, the Central Highlands province of Đắk Lắk, one can discover smaller plantations contributing refined flavours to these globally celebrated beverages.

Hà Nội has recently introduced another speciality to its gourmet coffee repertoire: Salt coffee, a treat originating from Huế.

Just over a decade ago, a duo in Huế decided to experiment by infusing their condensed milk coffee with a trending matcha salty whipped cream topping. This inventive blend has since become iconic.

Salt coffee is now a hallmark of Huế, the city of Việt Nam’s last kings, and stands as a testament to its enduring and intricate culinary heritage. This culinary artistry persisted even after the last king abdicated in 1945, transitioning the nation to a republic.

Historically, Huế’s grassroots chefs had a penchant for incorporating salt in their creations. Salt rice, for instance, has been a centrepiece of royal feasts, where an elaborate ten-course meal offers an unforgettable experience for lucky attendees.

Salt rice feast 

Cultural experts agree that sampling the Salt Rice Tray in Huế is akin to experiencing a centuries-old culinary heritage. Chefs have turned the most ordinary dishes of common people into a treasure trove. 

Tôn nữ thị Hà, a distinguished home chef in Huế, meticulously preserves 36 salt-based recipes in her personal cookbook.

“Huế’s salt marinated dishes may sound simple, yet they represent our philosophy reflecting our ancestors’ new land reclaiming process, their survival in harsh natural circumstances. Many dishes of ordinary people have come into the royal menu as our ancestors grew up on these dishes.”  

Salt dishes in Huế are typically grouped into three categories: salted vegetables and nuts, which include the likes of salted sesame, peanuts, apricots, and lemons; salted seafood, featuring items such as salted fish, shrimp, and various rice-field fish; and lastly, salted meats encompassing pork and beef.

Traditionally, salt was used either as a marinade or an ingredient, enhancing the flavour of vegetables and nuts, and encouraging moderate consumption. As royal feasts became less frequent over the years, the practice of enjoying these salt dishes, limited to a few ingredients, became confined to individual households.

In the present day, one can pre-book a grand salt feast at certain restaurants, but it’s typically reserved for special events. A group of Huế’s signature chefs is currently collating documentation, aiming to submit it to UNESCO for recognition and protection as a cultural heritage.

Given this deeply ingrained salt culinary tradition in the daily lives of Huế’s inhabitants, the introduction of salt to their coffee culture might have come later, but it seems it was always destined to be.

From simple coffee joints to well decorated shops, salt coffee makes a lasting impression.

Salt coffee conquers Hà Nội

Salt Coffee was first made by the owners of Cafe Muối, at 10 Nguyễn Lương Bằng in Huế, a city with a population just shy of half a million.

Following this innovation, many other coffee establishments in Huế began crafting their own versions of the beverage, leading to a bustling market for such a novel creation.

Salt coffee is distinctively prepared using hand-filtered coffee through either a metal or ceramic filter, combined with condensed milk. It is then garnished with salty whipped cream and a sprinkle of cinnamon powder.

A decade ago, inspired by the emerging trend of salt coffee in Huế, a husband-wife duo established a business which championed province specialities. Nguyễn thị Như Mai, the wife, is the proprietor of Phinholic, a series of ‘coffee-holic’ establishments, alongside The Hut, renowned for its paper straws, The Aroma, a centre dedicated to mixology, and ‘How to Make’, an application guiding users in coffee preparation.

On the other hand, Mai Khắc Khôi, the husband, spearheads the Green Field Coffee company, which specialises in roasting coffee beans and supplying them to various coffee shops across Huế. He also sources coffee grown in the A Lưới District of Thừa Thiên – Huế province.

 

They opened their first Phinholic cafe in Hà Nội last year.

Cao Huy Miên Nhã, co-owner of the Phinholic shop on Nguyễn Khuyến Street tells Việt Nam News: “We sell between 30-40 cups a day.”

In a city like Hà Nội, home to 8 million residents and a myriad of coffee shops, the numbers might seem insignificant. Yet, when considering that their coffee beans are sourced exclusively from A Lưới district in Huế, and that the caffeine content is calibrated to ensure it’s safe for consumers, this unique offering is bound to carve out its niche audience.

Detractors might argue that the Vietnamese already incorporate a substantial amount of salt in their daily diets. Health experts suggest a reduction in daily salt intake. Such warnings can be beneficial for those keen on maintaining their caffeine habits.

Phinholic makers already had that in mind, “Each portion comprises 160ml of coffee,” Miên Nhã told Việt Nam News adding, “Our coffee brewers have taken a certificate that runs out every two years.” If they do not retake the test again, they shall not be able to maintain the activities of the brewing centre.

An ice cup of milk coffee with salty whipped cream on top gets all your senses up and running for the day.

Nowadays in Hà Nội, you can stumble upon salt coffee in nearly every pavement cafe, sitting alongside other beloved beverages from various parts of Việt Nam. Alongside the fresh coconut juice from Bến Tre Province or the delightful lemon/kumquat tea, always remember that salt coffee traces its origins back to Huế. VNS

Dr Mattias Larsson. Photo courtesy of Family Medical Practice

Dr Mattias Larsson*

Thủy, a usually vibrant seven-year-old girl, had a persistent dry cough for three weeks, was tired, had decreased appetite, headaches, and low fever of 38oC. Hằng, Thủy’s mother, had taken her to local physicians and she had been treated with both cough syrup and antibiotics without any apparent effect except for diarrhea. As the mother was concerned and wanted a clear diagnosis, she took Thủy to Family Medical Practice for consultation.

Parents should consult clinics with capacity for differential diagnostics. — Photo shutterstock.com

Coughing is one of the most common causes parents take their children to FMP. From the body’s point of view, coughing not a problem, but a solution! When irritants, such as mucus, foreign particles or pathogens enter the airways special receptors detect the irritant and a reflex response causes a forceful exhalation to expel the irritant, resulting in cough. 

When examining Thủy, the doctor noticed that the respiratory rate was faster than expected for her age, and she had inward chest movements, indicating that the body had to struggle to get enough oxygen. In the base of the right lung there was a crackling sound, crepitations, indicating that it might be some infection. 

When assessing symptoms you need to do a differential diagnosis between different causes. The first is to classify what kind of cough. Dry or productive with mucus? Force and frequency of coughing? Are there danger signs such as: High fever above 38,5oC? Difficulty or rapid breathing? In-drawings? Cyanosis with blue lips? Decreased appetite? Changes in consciousness?

What are the most common causes of coughing?

– Viral colds, the most common causes of childhood coughs, start with a runny nose that progresses to thicker mucus, possibly fever, usually resolves within a week with rest and symptomatic treatment.

– Bronchitis causes rapid breathing and chest in-drawings, is often viral, as RSV leading to high fever and respiratory distress in infants and young children. Treated with inhalation medication.

– Asthma causes airway restriction, cough, and difficulty breathing.

– Pneumonia presents with high fever, persistent cough and breathing problems, diagnosed with clinical evaluation, X-ray and blood tests, is often caused by bacteria that require antibiotics.

– COVID-19  causing cough, fever and respiratory symptoms, usually milder in kids than adults.

– Streptococcal Tonsillitis causes severe sore throat, pain when eating and drinking, cough and. Diagnosed with rapid strep-A test and treated with antibiotics.

– Allergic reactions trigger long-term coughing with transparent mucus, often also itchy eyes and runny nose. No fever. Managed by reducing exposure (pollen, mite, pollution,… ) and treated with antihistamine.

– Tuberculosis (TB), characterised by persistent cough, sometimes with blood, along with fever, weight loss and fatigue. Timely diagnosis and treatment is crucial.

– Whooping cough (Pertussis) causing severe coughing fits and often followed by a distinctive “whooping” sound during inhalation. Vaccination plays a vital role in prevention.

– Croup, presenting as a barking cough, hoarseness, and noisy breathing due to swelling of the upper airway. It is typically a viral infection and may require medical attention.

– Influenza A causes high fever, respiratory symptoms and body aches. Early diagnosis allows treatment with oseltamivir. Annual flu vaccination is recommended.

– Legionellosis, caused by the Legionella bacteria, starts with high fever, shivering, dry cough, breathing difficulties, chest pain, muscle aches and confusion, diagnosed with blood test, PCR. Treatment with antibiotics. 

As Thủy had persistent coughing, rapid breathing and crepitations, an X-ray was performed that showed infection in the lung. Blood tests indicated a bacterial infection, and a few hours later a rapid PCR test identified the culprit: Mycoplasma pneumoniae. Consequently, the correct antibiotic treatment was prescribed.

But why did Thủy not respond to the prior antibiotic treatment? That’s because Mycoplasma pneumoniae is an intracellular bacterium that does not respond to the most common antibiotics.

 A child’s cough can result from various causes, ranging from minor irritations to severe infections. Caregivers should be observant for danger signs such as rapid breathing, inward chest movements and persistent fever. Consulting a clinic with capacity for differential diagnostics is essential for an accurate diagnosis and appropriate treatment. Family Medical Practice

 *Dr Mattias Larsson is a paediatric doctor at Family Medical Practice and associate professor at Karolinska Institutet and has a long experience in research on infectious diseases. He has worked with the Oxford University Clinical Research Unit and the Ministry of Health of Vietnam. He is fluent in English, Swedish, Vietnamese, German, and some Spanish.

 Visit Family Medical Practice Hanoi 24/7 at 298I P. Kim Mã St, Kim Mã Ward, Ba Đình Dist. 

To book an appointment, please call us at (024).3843.0784 or via Whatsapp, Viber or Zalo on +84.944.43.1919 or email [email protected].

FMP’s downtown location in Hồ Chí Minh City is in Diamond Plaza, 34 Đ Lê Duẩn St, Bến Nghé Ward, District 1, and 95 Đ Thảo Điền St, District 2.  Tel. (028) 3822 7848 or email [email protected].